Food From the Maldives: Illiterate Indigestion

Beaches, at least while I’m traveling solo, are at the bottom of the list of priorities.  I might head towards one for a sunset shot, to try local seafood or to admire the terrain, but not to kick back for a few hours.

Thus, you can imagine my…imagination’s surprise when I flew to the Maldives for a few days in January 2008.  OK, my goal at the time was the Indonesian Embassy in Colombo, Sri Lanka, so visiting the Maldives was a result of geographic convenience.

Beyond snorkeling (slaloming) between schools of tropical fish and rubbish floating by a jetty near Hulhumale’ and getting nauseous from diesel fumes from the public boats, I wasn’t sure what else to do.

Oh, right.  Let’s explore Maldivian food.

Right off the bat, you should know that fish, specifically skipjack tuna, is THE staple of the Maldives.  The canned (tinned for British English viewers) variety is more and more common, but traditionally the tuna was cured – in this case, boiled, smoked and sun-choked – into a product called ari.  Coconuts are also par for the course.

Secondly, I was glad though unsurprised that English was often present.  I had no idea how to say anything in Dhivehi, and the written script looked like one’s breath was trying its damnedest to communicate.

That said, here’s when I had a generally good sense of what I ordered:

Food in the Maldives -  (2)

The first meal I ate in the Maldives was appropriately a tuna-centric one.  It tasted canned, and the chapati – known locally as roshi – was lukewarm at best.  What a disappointment.

Maybe I’m being too hard on the food.  I drank the water, so that’s probably where the disappointment set in.

Food in the Maldives -  (3)

The server knew me well.

Food in the Maldives -  (7)

Oops, more water.

Wandering around downtown Male’ on one of my empty stomachs, I sought refuge in a bustling short eats hole-in-the-wall.

What’s on the menu?  Fried things, round fried things, fried round things, and tuna.  With coconut, fried.  And heavily sweetened tea.  And tuna.

The first plates come by.  The lighter things in the lower-left are called gulha, made with tuna, coconut and chilies, and the darker ones are kavaabu, fried with tuna, potatoes and lime.  To the right, we have riha folhi, curried tuna rolls, and in the back, unfortunately I don’t recall the names.  The yellow item that looks like a swimming turtle is NOT an egg, and the glutinous cubes behind it didn’t have much taste.  It’s safe to say that neither of those contained tuna.  Can anyone identify those snacks?

Food in the Maldives -  (4)

Add the fish curry to the list of foods that made me suffer dearly.  I couldn’t speak for a few minutes because it was flippin’ spicy.  That the rice was boiling hot didn’t help things, nor did the spicy vegetables (including red onions, another Maldivian favorite).  Which is to say, I’d order that curry again, if only I knew the name…

Food in the Maldives -  (5)

Papaya shake.  Although I often think papayas have a Bubblicious aftertaste, they are refreshing in shake-form.  What’s the BuildingMyBento standard?  No sugar, no ice.  That’s usually a woeful order. (Ever try warm cucumber juice?  I couldn’t take a second sip.)

Now it’s time to go into the “what am I ordering” category:

Food in the Maldives -  (6)

You’re supposed to spit it out?  No wonder the Maldives is so popular with Chinese tourists.

This potent combination of a stimulant – the areca nut, cinnamon, cloves, and calcium hydroxide (to help with absorption) usually follows a Maldivian meal. That is, I thought it was a dessert, so down the hatch a handful went.

Another afternoon wasted.

Also odd how calcium hydroxide makes its second appearance in two weeks on my blog, yet has never been mentioned before then.

Food in the Maldives -  (1)

The warning notice and the Chinese on the bottom should have been enough, but I still dared to try a thimble’s worth of khaini, ready-to-roll tobacco.  Who needs Amsterdam when the Maldives are ready to serve you.

Have you tried Maldivian cuisine?










About buildingmybento

Bread, olive oil Waking up in Nakagin Sure does sound like me
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2 Responses to Food From the Maldives: Illiterate Indigestion

  1. Marisa says:

    Hey Jonathan–I always want to try what’s local and authentic to a region, but here…my hat’s off to you.

    • Thanks for your comment, Marisa! So then, these foods don’t look too appealing to you?

      If you are interested in exploring Indonesian cuisine in NY, I’d be glad to meet you somewhere.


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